I took my car in since my air didn't work so they converted it over to the new system. They refitted it since the R12(I think) isn't used anymore. It still isn't cold.I've taken it back 3x and it still doesn't work right. When I put it on A/C it blows light air. Max is just loud and doesn't really blow out. The settings with the guy sitting and the arrows pointing don't blow air out either. (Actually 1 in 5 work) They said I didn't have a leak when they converted it and the new coolant (can't think of the name or #) isn't going to be as cold as the R12. My defrost works. Another thing, I don't really have heat in the winter either. I'm going to take it somewhere else but I'd like to get some opinions on whats wrong first.I'm trying to hang on to it it as long as I can so please don't tell me to just buy a new car. It's the right price. Paid for.
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07-04-02, 11:32 AM
Walks On Water
While this is just a crazy guess, I would look at you duct system. Some have mechanical dampers the shut or open to move the air where you need or request it to blow. Some have Vacuum operated dampers they are either controlled by manual valves that you turn on you dash or automatically by computer or electrical control.

You may even have a duct off somewhere that is dumping the air where it is not needed.

Lastly, while I have not seen this happen, the evaporator coil could be blocked with dirt and debris. This is the part of the system that cools the air and if blocked you service person should be able to tell when he was charging the system, that is, if he knew what he was doing.

Now that we have to be certified to handle refrigerant, this does not mean that we know what we are doing technically.

The refrigerant that is replacing R-12 is R-134a. While not as efficient as R-12, you should not notice the difference.

Yes, if in 3 attempts he has not solved your problem, I think I would try someone else. That is if you gave him all the facts.

07-04-02, 12:20 PM
clarebear
The only facts that I know it that it doesn't blow cold air. It blows air a little but it just is not cold. The last time I was there they blew some leaves out. It didn't really help though. Thanks for the info on R12-R134a. Now I won't sound like a complete idiot when I take it in. smile

07-05-02, 09:37 AM
game42r42
First you need to go under the hood while the car is running and see if the compressor is turning and the clutch is engaged.

R-12 is still sold in Canada and Mexico and half the world, you just can't guy it in the USA or transport it here. There are now some R-12 replacements on the market where you don't have to retro-fit your rig.

If you know nothing about AC, I would take my rig to a knowledgeable person. This doesn't have to be down town, but needs to be someone who knows what they are looking for. Often to find the problem you must know what is going on and that involves taping theremometers to different points on the system and monitor what is happening.

My 85 Toro had a problem with stuck gates or vents and when a diaphram went bad the doors ceased to work and put out mostly heat. confused

07-05-02, 09:47 AM
Fritzzs
First of all, your A/C people are idiots...Going to the new freon will put out just as cold air as the other did...They have evidently screwed something up...I would highly advise to go to someone else and have it looked at...Boy, could I give you a list where NOT to go to where I live....

07-05-02, 10:38 AM
clarebear
My b/f looked at it. He said my compresser isn't engaging. I looked at it too and it wasn't turning. frown

07-05-02, 04:06 PM
TiCkeM
I'm with WoW. If you are getting neither cool nor warm air there must be a blockage somewhere. Your compressor may not be working because head pressure is building up. This, too, may be caused by air passages being blocked. I notice that you live in a state where rust can be a problem. Rust can contribute to blocked air flow. I think your system just needs a careful check.

07-05-02, 04:59 PM
clarebear
Thank You everyone. I'm going to go to the dealer on Monday. smile

07-08-02, 11:55 AM
clarebear
Just got back with an estimate. My evaporator coil is leaking. It leaked out my freon and oil.
The refrigerant oil leaked out on the coil causing dust buildup restricting the air flow through the coil. The cost: $600.00 for parts and labor! Guess I'm sticking with my 4/80 air.
(4 windows down... 80mph) frown

10-10-02, 12:12 PM
clarebear
Took my car back in. My heat isn't working either.

quote:Lastly, while I have not seen this happen, the evaporator coil could be blocked with dirt and debris.



This is one of the reasons they said.
But would this effect the heat as well as the a/c?

My heater core is fine. When I turn on the heat it blows out very little. frown

10-10-02, 02:09 PM
sae501
Clare: WOW has your answer. There are several doors called blend doors that open and close and therefore direct the air from the fan across the evap for cool or heater core for heat, or can be adjusted in between to regulate the temp in your car. The fact that stated when you set the fan to high and all you get is more noise and no more air tells me that there is a problem with these doors. This would also explain why you have no heat. There is a controller on the dash that moves these doors according to the settings you make and the problem could well be there. However..... I have also seen many times where the door itself is stuck or jammed by something which has fallen into the defrost vents on top of the dash. The first thing you'll need to get straightened out would be these doors. When you can change the settings on your controller and you get a good forceful flow of air from any of the selected vents then you can address weather or not there is a problem with the evap core. Which in fact there may well be.......ummmmm.... let's just say I have seen it more than one time before.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: DorianGreyed,

While this is just a crazy guess, I would look at you duct system. Some have mechanical dampers the shut or open to move the air where you need or request it to blow. Some have Vacuum operated dampers they are either controlled by manual valves that you turn on you dash or automatically by computer or electrical control.

You may even have a duct off somewhere that is dumping the air where it is not needed.

Lastly, while I have not seen this happen, the evaporator coil could be blocked with dirt and debris. This is the part of the system that cools the air and if blocked you service person should be able to tell when he was charging the system, that is, if he knew what he was doing.

Now that we have to be certified to handle refrigerant, this does not mean that we know what we are doing technically.

The refrigerant that is replacing R-12 is R-134a. While not as efficient as R-12, you should not notice the difference.

Yes, if in 3 attempts he has not solved your problem, I think I would try someone else. That is if you gave him all the facts.

The only facts that I know it that it doesn't blow cold air. It blows air a little but it just is not cold. The last time I was there they blew some leaves out. It didn't really help though. Thanks for the info on R12-R134a. Now I won't sound like a complete idiot when I take it in.

First you need to go under the hood while the car is running and see if the compressor is turning and the clutch is engaged.

R-12 is still sold in Canada and Mexico and half the world, you just can't guy it in the USA or transport it here. There are now some R-12 replacements on the market where you don't have to retro-fit your rig.

If you know nothing about AC, I would take my rig to a knowledgeable person. This doesn't have to be down town, but needs to be someone who knows what they are looking for. Often to find the problem you must know what is going on and that involves taping theremometers to different points on the system and monitor what is happening.

My 85 Toro had a problem with stuck gates or vents and when a diaphram went bad the doors ceased to work and put out mostly heat.

First of all, your A/C people are idiots...Going to the new freon will put out just as cold air as the other did...They have evidently screwed something up...I would highly advise to go to someone else and have it looked at...Boy, could I give you a list where NOT to go to where I live....

My b/f looked at it. He said my compresser isn't engaging. I looked at it too and it wasn't turning.

I'm with WoW. If you are getting neither cool nor warm air there must be a blockage somewhere. Your compressor may not be working because head pressure is building up. This, too, may be caused by air passages being blocked. I notice that you live in a state where rust can be a problem. Rust can contribute to blocked air flow. I think your system just needs a careful check.

Thank You everyone. I'm going to go to the dealer on Monday.

Just got back with an estimate. My evaporator coil is leaking. It leaked out my freon and oil.
The refrigerant oil leaked out on the coil causing dust buildup restricting the air flow through the coil. The cost: $600.00 for parts and labor! Guess I'm sticking with my 4/80 air.
(4 windows down... 80mph)

Took my car back in. My heat isn't working either.

quote:

---

Lastly, while I have not seen this happen, the evaporator coil could be blocked with dirt and debris.

---

This is one of the reasons they said.
But would this effect the heat as well as the a/c?

My heater core is fine. When I turn on the heat it blows out very little.