Im having a major problem with my 2001 s-10 pickup. When I put in the key there is literally no response. All the electrical systems are out, and the engine doesn't try to turn. There is no response when I try to turn the ignition. The battery has been checked and is still good, and the alternator has been checked also. What could it be?? Is it the starter? Please respond

Is the battery correctly earthed to the body of the car? Are the battery leads in good order? Are the battery posts clean, and are the leads tightly and correctly and firmly attached to the posts?

Welcome to Answerpool!
This is definitely a battery problem. If it was your starter motor then there would still be power to the ignition and the dashboard lights would come on. Are the polarity terminals on the battery terminals connected the correct way round?

My husband suggested that you check the fuse box under the bonnet.(hood) There may be an ignition fuse which may have blown.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Jenny Roberts,

Yes, Jen, it is a battery problem. The fuse idea is a good one, as is the polarity check.
Let us know how you get on, raven1450...good luck!

well i cleaned the posts....the positive side had a lot of residue on it. However, it still isn't responding at all...I try to turn it and it clicks, and then goes back to no response. In regards to checking the fuses.... am i just looking for a fuse that looks fried or what? thanks for all the help...I really appreciate all the input.

Undo the leads from both the terminal posts
Get a piece of fine emery paper or fine steel wool rub the face of the terminals Which the lead faces until it is bright and shiny then clean the lead ends until they are shiny
Next reattach the leads smear a dab of Petroleum jelly/ over the terminals (after tightening) this will give you maximum protection against corrosion plus best electric contact Next check out the negative (ground)battery cable that attaches to the body replace if it looks frayed. Clean the contact point to the Vehicle body and make sure the bolt is tight OK?
Try to start again...
No Change... then the fault almost certainly lies in a broken Ground strap which goes from the engine block to the body Look around the starter motor area underneath the engine though sometimes they are located somewhere high up
They break because of worn engine mountings causing the engine to shift(rock) when in drive
Another symptom: frequently breaking exhaust pipes!

That was a quick response, Bedstor! It seems we all feel the same, that there is simply a break in the electrical circuit, which ought to be relatively easy & inexpensive to fix, once the break is detected. Your suggestions are 110% spot-on, in my opinion, and should be thoroughly observed before moving on to other, more expensive checks and tests.

Here is a simple test I use.

With the key off, turn on your head ligths.
1) Do they come on at almost full brightness?
With the headlights on, turn the key to the first position, the accessories-engine run position.
2) Are the headlights the same brightness?
Now turn the key as if to start the engine.
3) Do the headlights dim or go out all together?
4) Do you here the click of the starter solenoid pulling in?

On question 1, the headlights tell me that the battery is at least fairly charged.

Question 2 tells me if the lights stay at the same brightness, there is nothing drawing heavy amps on the accessory circuit.

Question 3 tells me that if they dim or go out, the battery is not putting out enough or a bad connection. This can be at either end of the positive and negitive leads.

Question 4, if the lights do not dim and you here the started solenoid clicking, you may have a bad connection at the solenoid or even a bad solenoid.

There are 2 types of starter systems. The solenoid operated starter where the solenoid engages the starter motor in to the flywheel gear. When it does this, it closes a contact at the back to supply power to the started motor.

The other is mechanical engagement where the spinning motor forces the starter the engage. This system uses a start relay.

The batttery connects directly to either one of these.

It is so hard to do this without "Laying of the hands" on the vehicle.

As WOW suggests the solenoid

could be on its way out
I have a test to see if it is jammed
First make sure the vehicle is in neutral(Ignition OFF)
There are 2 thick cables which terminate with
rubber caps one from the battery the other to the Starter OK?
Get a metal object (old screwdriver with an Insulated handle is ideal) raise both the

caps and bridge (dab) the exposed terminals with your "tester" You'll probably get a
large spark/arc and the starter motor will turn over
If this happens the Solenoid is OK replace the caps and look elsewhere
Don't leave your tester in situ! The Amperage is sufficient to weld it to the terminals (hence the "quick dab")
If its a preengaged starter and the solenoid is faulty then the entire unit must be
replaced
But good news there are car electrical workshops who will part exchange it for a
reconditioned unit
Official dealers will only sell you a brand new unit (not interested in exchanges)
Option 3 is to locate a unit at a Wreckers yard(Cheapest way) but there is no
guarantee that it is good (have to take their word for it) also there is no money back if
its unsuitable or defective. They'll let you test it before leaving, so bring a battery and
some battery leads along with you run the test as above.Also bring along a knowledgeable friend if you can? So they cannot Flim-Flam you!