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Diamond
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We're having 2 separate problems with our 1986 Chevy S-10. The power door lock and window control switch on the drivers side are not working. I discovered that there are two broken wires in the door hinge area.

The breaks are in an area where I cannot get in there to solder the wires. In trying to strip one wire, I managed to break it, so I would have to splice in a section to lengthen the wire. I tried to use a "crimp" type connection, but just can't get enough of the wire exposed to get the connector on.

I'm thinking that I will have to replace the wire bundle. The problem is, I can't figure out how to get the wire bundle out. I don't know how to get inside the door panel, or how or where to disconnect the wire bundle under the dashboard area. I'm assuming I will have to buy a service manual, but I'm wondering if anyone can tell me how difficult this is going to be.

Secondly, the instrument panel cluster night illumination is not working. This is not related to the door problem (it occurred before the window/door lock problem). I cannot find a bulb to replace or even where the bulb(s) might be located. This is not the digital instrument panel, but rather the "steam gage" standard speedometer, oil pressure, temperature, etc.

Thanks for any assistance you can provide.

Dwight
 
Posts: 4454 | Location: Anchorage, AK | Registered: 06-05-02Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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On the broken wire, if you have room try to twist another piece of wire on and put a wire nut on it. You might be able to do this with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Some instrument panels have small bulbs that are plugged into the board, like a printed circuit board. Hope it helps.
 
Posts: 320 | Location: Prince George, Va. USA | Registered: 06-05-02Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You can buy a tool for removing the door panel at any auto parts store. It sorta looks like a nail puller with a screwdriver handle. You slide it behind the panel trying to position the fork in the tool to surround the fastener (just as with a nail puller). Before you remove the panel, get yourself a handful of replacement fasteners as some of them will inevitably break as you remove them.

You will also find some screws hidden somewhere on the panel, usually around the armrest, window crank and door handle. Of course you will need to remove these.

I cannot see the need to replace the entire wire in the bundle. That would be a real headache.

Dash lights are a mystery to me these days. Have you checked the fuse?
 
Posts: 1799 | Location: Nashville, TN | Registered: 06-05-02Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Gold Enthusiast
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First your dash light problem:
Click Here For some pictures of the holders you probably have in your
dash cluster. The first four pictures show these type of holders.
They are removed by a 1/8 turn CCW twist, then the bulb can be pulled out of the holder.

Now the wire problem:
Follow as TeeCeeum suggests and when you get the door panel
opened, try to run a new wire of the same gage to replace the
broken ones, As TCUM says, changing the whole harness would
be a real pain.

Best of luck to you
Mike b. AKA
 
Posts: 1052 | Location: Sun Valley, Calif. :^þ | Registered: 06-03-02Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Diamond
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My thanks to KesMan, teeceeum, and Byter! Now my weekend plans are complete...hopefully the windows will go up and down again!

Dwight
 
Posts: 4454 | Location: Anchorage, AK | Registered: 06-05-02Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Dwight: TCUM is absolutely right: be sure to have replacement fasteners for you door panel. You are probably going to need to get to the OTHER side of this wire bundle, which is behind the left kick panel. You can pull the broken ones into the truck and make your repairs. BEFORE you pull them through into the truck tie a string on them and pull this though, then after you have made your repair use the string to pull your wires back through. The dash lights: you say ALL of them are out? That being the case it is probably not a bulb problem. I have seen the connector on the back of the instrument cluster have connection problems due to corrosion although not often. Look at the dimmer control. I have seen these corrode and become intermittent or fail completely.
 
Posts: 127 | Location: Medina, Oh. USA | Registered: 06-03-02Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Diamond
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My wife drives this vehicle and she told me the instrument lights went out one-by-one. She doesn't remember if there were 2 or 3 lights.

I appreciate your answer!

Dwight
 
Posts: 4454 | Location: Anchorage, AK | Registered: 06-05-02Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Diamond
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I started this repair process several times and did not ever get either finished. The vehicle has been sitting idle for just over a year and now we've decided to reactivate it, so I'm back to trying to replace the instrument panel lights and the wire harness for the power door locks and side window controls.
Today, I'm taking the panel apart to try to access the instrument panel lights. I have about everything removed except I cannot get the knobs off for the heater controls. If I could get these off, the heater control panel will come off allowing access to the area behind it.



This is the instrument panel of the 1986 Chevrolet S-10. The night illumination bulbs have gone out. I tested the dimmer switch and it appears to be working correctly.



The "Remove?-->" note in the picture shows the knobs I'm trying to remove. One on the top and one on the bottom. I have applied a lot of pressure using a pair of pliers and they do not come off. I do not see any fastener screws any where on them.

Any help with this will certainly be appreciated!

Thanks,
Dwight
 
Posts: 4454 | Location: Anchorage, AK | Registered: 06-05-02Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Diamond Enthusiast

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quote:
The "Remove?-->" note in the picture shows the knobs I'm trying to remove. One on the top and one on the bottom. I have applied a lot of pressure using a pair of pliers and they do not come off. I do not see any fastener screws any where on them.

Dwight
They'll come off if me and experience of car breaking can be trusted they normally are secured by a push fit into a deep notch on the control arm with a metal retainer,try getting 2 flat screwdrivers behind the knob and apply equal pressure or have you a pair of pincers with thin ends to grip around the Knob? Perhaps there might be something like this in your computer tool kit? Car tool kits are a bit chunky Frown
TIP Go to the Car Wreckers and try this out on another vehicle first. Most yards let you dismantle for free. I avoid those who Insist you buy from behind a counter and won't let you search Frown
 
Posts: 14847 | Location: 6 miles west of Wigan UK | Registered: 06-05-02Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Diamond
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Thanks, that worked great. The knobs came off and that enabled us to get to light bulbs that needed changing.
Dwight
 
Posts: 4454 | Location: Anchorage, AK | Registered: 06-05-02Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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