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Posted
I am new here and am looking for answers on Gardening.

My family and I just moved to the sticks next door to my parents who have quite a few acres of land that they will allow us to garden on. Most of the land where we would garden is overgrown with weeds and the grasshoppers are horrific.

I definitely want to begin preparing for next year's garden and would even like to plant some things this year if possible (fall potatos?). Crops that we want to grow are: tomatoes, corn cucumbers, green beans, zuchinni, squash, beets, carrots, radishes, well maybe it would be easier to list what I don't want to grow. I am guessing I would be advised to start off smaller and with fewer crops since I am pretty ignorant when it comes to growing things.

My wife is suggesting weeder geese to control grasshoppers. We also are considering goats and/or pigs to eat or trample the weeds in our garden areas. Raising animals for food is part of our long term plan too.

We have about 50 chickens roming the acreage now but many of the grasshoppers are to big and rowdy for the chickens to take them down. Next year though maybe the chickens will help more because they will be there before the grasshoppers get so large and strong.

I am looking for guidance in getting started. I have recently bought "Square Foot Gardening" and have just began to read it. Can anyone help?
 
Posts: 3 | Location: wichita | Registered: 07-21-06Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I forgot to mention my location. I am in central Kansas where it was 108 degrees several days last week and 104 yesterday. I'm not complaining mind you!
 
Posts: 3 | Location: wichita | Registered: 07-21-06Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Diamond Enthusiast

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I organic garden. That is to say that I use natural methods to grow my food and plants. We live on 2 acres of land, when I moved here nearly 9 years ago it was mostly weeds, dying or dead flowers, sickly “lawn” and pretty much over fertilized, over watered, and the soil was all but dead sand.

Through the years with mulching, mulch mowing and lots of composting of the organic matter: grass clippings and all of those leaves and when the tree trimmers come we have them shred the material and leave if for us – which cuts the cost of tree trimming Wink

My vegetable garden is in the shape of a backwards “D” The east side is the bottom of the D – along the straight side toward the arc I have a 4 foot wide opening. The straight side (north) has a brick path on the outside leading to what used to be a parking place but is now lawn. The arch is backed by oleanders with the driveway leading to the carport. The west side is boarded by 8’ tall shrubbery, the east side opens to the lawn.

The over all size of the vegetable garden is 22 feet by 18 feet. The straight side is 4 feet wide, the arch is almost 3 feet wide, and the east side/short bed is almost 4 feet wide. It didn’t build it in the course of one summer – the first bed was the long straight north side, where I dug with shovel about 18 inches deep, lined the trench with black and white news print, soaking that with water and tossed back in the soil (sand really) mixing it with lots of composted and semi composted organic matter. That fall I dug out the eastern (short) bed. Then over the course of the third year I worked on the long arc.

I use several things, companion planting, succession planting, intensive gardening and lots and lots of mulch. I buy straw bales from the Pumpkin people (the folk that sell jack o’lantern pumpkins bring in a lot of straw bales, selling them for $5. each when Halloween is over). Straw not hay. Hay has seeds which will end up giving you a hay crop. Straw bales work nicely for many things – for instance in the spring I lay them out to form an open box on top of that I lay screens (I got 3 used sliding screen doors from folk who had their sliding glass doors replaced) inside of the box I plant my starter plants, protects them from critters until they are started. Earlier than when most folk start plants I add plastic gallon milk bottles filled with water – they absorb sunlight (heat up) and radiate that over night in case we get a late frost. When that part of the season is over, I break the bales up into “sheets” which I lay around the base of peppers, tomatoes and other widely spaced plants. Bales tend to break into layers length wise due to how baling is done. This mulch will hold moisture in the ground (lately we have had 100+ temperatures), prevents weeds from growing and rots into compost. By the end of the season over half of the hay sheet in contact with the soil will have composted into black soil. I toss the remainder in a pile (compost heap).

Around lettuce radishes and similar “short” plants I use grass clippings, sprinkling the grass clippings over the seeds about ¼ inch thick, and as they seeds sprout and grow I sprinkle more and more.

Lettuce, carrot and radish seed, which calls for even spacing say 2 inches apart (as example) I make a “seed tape”. I take a roll of paper towel (cheap, pure white) unroll 3-4 feet of that and cut it lengthways into strips about 1 inch wide. Then I make a paste of cornstarch and water. With tooth pick I place a small glob of corn starch every two inches, dropping a seed into each glob. I do this in the living room, on the coffee table while watching TV during the winter. I allow the cornstarch to dry, roll up the paper towel strip; slide it into a paper envelope with the name of the seed on it. Come spring I pull back my thick layer of mulch, pull any weeds that may be there (rarely due to the thick layer of fall/winter mulch) hit the soil with hoe and rake (I don’t walk in the beds so the soil is usually already loose) unroll the strips of seed, sprinkle loose mulch/compost over that, water and walk away. No long term squatting and counting out seeds and trying to see those tiny things in the dark soil.

This works for a lot of seeds.

Tomatoes and peppers I start in egg carton. Used to be you could find the paper egg cartons every where, now days they are being replaced with foam. Fortunately for us we buy sheets of eggs (up to 5 dozen at a time) and the company still used the pressed paper. I put the tray in an old cookie sheet (one with ½ sides) water from the bottom (the paper soaks up the water, transferring it to the soil and seed) when the plant is ready to go into the ground I cut the egg carton up, plop the whole thing in the soil, burying the egg carton where it rapidly rots and the plant roots are not disturbed or “shocked”.

This egg carton method applies to many plants, marigolds, herbs, and other annuals. Not only does it help you to start plants, it also is one way to cut back on how much goes to the landfill Wink

Paper: I use newspaper (not the glossy sheets, the dull uncoated sheets) as mulch and as pot liners. My landlord gets two newspapers a day – that is a lot – A LOT of paper. The parents print up a lot of “stuff” junk mail mostly (the mother in law just loves printing up jokes from her million and one net buddies) Most (not all) of it is black and white. We bought them a paper shredder a few X-mases ago, with strict instructions to shred black and white paper into that, bag it and every week we take the bag – I throw it into the compost heap or use it as mulch.

Most of my knowledge came from the local public library, I checked out a ton of books on “organic gardening”. Now days the internet hold a great deal of information on the subject, here are a few sites:

Grasshopper: http://www.ghorganics.com/page12.html

Companion Planting: http://www.gardentoad.com/companionplants.html

Succession Planting: http://www.gardenguides.com/TipsandTechniques/successi.htm

Compost: http://www.gardenorganic.org.uk/organicgardening/gh_comp.php

Mulch: http://www.lawnaeration.com/faq/4.2.html
 
Posts: 3885 | Location: Leaving land, heading for the ocean | Registered: 06-03-02Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Diamond Enthusiast

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More information. Hey what can I say, we can talk about this subject for days and still not cover it all.

You must understand that one person can only eat so much. For instance on tomato bush can provide tomatoes out the yang yang for one person. A family of three does not need 12 tomato bushes – even if you are planning on caning tomatoes for the rest of your life.

Things like leaf lettuce can, through conservative harvesting methods (picking a leaf here and there off of several plants as needed) will continue to produce through its growing season. I usually have 2 of each type of leafy green (spinach, lettuce varieties) that I harvest the day before (to chill it) I use. I’m the only one who eats leafy greens here – 6 to 8 plants is far much more than I can eat even when eating a salad each day. The landlord, the parents and a few other people get gifts of vegetables – oh they smile and take it, but I have a feeling I need more friends in order to spread out the wealth of produce Wink.

Zucchini, summer Squash and other things are prolific producers – if you harvest before the fruit is fully grown. Most folk prefer a zucchini that is small (4-6 inches long) however the fruit grows over a foot long when mature. Zucchini bread (muffins, blah) is best out of a mature zucchini, zucchini as a side dish is best as a young, tender squash. One plant can produce more zucchini that 2 people can eat.

Beans like green beans can produce for a long time; again you don’t need that many plants to feed your family beans – unless your family loves beans Wink. To extend the growing season I take one packet of seeds, planting new seeds every other week. As one plant reaches the end of its production, another plant is just starting, and so on. I do that with carrots and peppers too.

Radishes, carrots, onion will require more plants, not necessarily more room. Think how many onions do you actually need or use? Even if you are drying onions you don’t need that many – same applies to garlic, carrots, radishes, etc. Many herbs are perennial and produce much more than you will use. Some will take over, like mint – pesky plant will take over your garden. Its best used in pots, or placed in a corner of you yard where you can mow around it each week. Mowing mint rewards you with that minty smellWink

Corn is a bad family garden choice. You figure 2-3 ears of corn per plant, each plant needs at least a foot of space, that adds up to a lot of plants. Besides corn is hard on soil, it needs lots of nitrogen’s, and is fairly intensive in the care department.

Potato is an iffy crop. We do crow potato, but not like they do in Idaho or Ireland, instead of burying potato cuttings in the soil, I lay them on the soil and cover with mulch. In more recent years I have a 4’ diameter wire cage where I lay the potato on about 1 foot of mulch, cover in about 6 inches of mulch and as the potatoes grow I add mulch to the bin causing the potato to grow upwards. When the season is over I pull the cage, rake through the mulch and harvest the potatoes. The cage is about 3 foot tall.

Old methods tend to require far much more land, causing the potato to spread outward, instead of upward.

Two years ago I put the potato cage on a spot of lawn where I wanted to plant another rose bush. At the end of the year, after harvesting the potatoes and putting the mulch in the compost area I had an area 4 feet in diameter where the grass was gone – turning the soil (leaving behind semi-composted material) and digging my holes I was able to plant my 3 rose bushes – laying in a layer of mulch to prevent weed/grass from growing, adding a bit of backer board as a trim.

Number of plants for a family of four: http://www.humeseeds.com/seedneed.htm

Of course if only one person eats turnips you would cut the number of plants to reflect such.

Unfortunately this chart doesn’t give number of plants; it gives you a row of X feet in one column, the spacing in another. Personally I plant turnips 3 to 4 inches apart thus the row described is not matching my needs. For turnips as example, it comes down to 15 feet divided by 6 inches (15’ = 180 inches/ 6 = 30 plants for 4 people/ 4 for 7.5 plants per people – round up to 8) However I think one person can eat more than just 8 turnips – I personally love turnips and plant about 20 of them, over a period of time so I don’t have all 20 ready to harvest at once.

Their example of peas strikes me as wrong, I have a 5 foot section which grows on trellis and we have more peas than we need – plus I parch and freeze some. Pease are short lived, thus planting a series spaced a week apart will produce a steady harvest over time.

There are hundreds of varieties of vegetables, mostly hybrid plants. I personally prefer old fashioned or “heirloom” varieties which breed true. Seed propagation is a little more work, for instance carrot will mate with Queen Anne’s Lace – the trick to raising carrot seed in a place where Queen Anne’s lace grows wild is to plant your seed crop at a time where the carrot and queen Anne’s is not blooming at the same time. Squashes (pumpkin and acorn as example) will cross pollinate. This can lead to “interesting” squash the next time you plant. Once year my field pumpkin (Used for cooking, unlike Jack O’lanterns which are thinner shelled, larger and used for carving) breed with gourds – I ended up with a touch shelled pumpkin which tasted “different” than just pumpkin – nearly impossible to cut into. Now I isolate the flowers in a breathing plastic bag (one with micro holes to allow moisture and heat to escape) and pollinate by hand (rubbing Q-tips in one flower, then the next, and the next).

Most, not all, of my vegetables I propagate myself now days.
 
Posts: 3885 | Location: Leaving land, heading for the ocean | Registered: 06-03-02Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Thanks for all that. It will take some time to digest. I see that beginning a composting project would be beneficial for my garden and give my children something to do other than cause trouble. Smile

I will be coming back for help as time goes on.

thanks
 
Posts: 3 | Location: wichita | Registered: 07-21-06Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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