Hi! Where do you put an Easter Lily - inside or outside? I've read that you put them in a cool, sunny location...Well, a sunny location isn't too cool, especially outside. It gets so hot outside, right now. In the winter, it will be so cold. So, should it be an inside or outside plant? Thank you!
-Trinity
Posts: 324 | Location: Texas USA | Registered: 06-28-02
Here is a site that discusses caring for an Easter Lily. Unfortunately, they don't typically winter over well in areas where it gets below freezing. Easter Lily Care
I live in zone 5, which has temperatures from 5-10 below 0 some winters. I plant my easter lilies in the back yard, and sometimes they rebloom the same year - but they mostly always come back up the following spring, and put on a good show.
Posts: 87 | Location: Scranton, Pa., USA - Zone 5 | Registered: 06-04-02
Hello, everyone! I see what Trinity means. I have an Easter Lily myself, and am confused on how to take care of it. The instructions you read don't help any. They say to keep the plant in a bright, sunny location...but, not direct sunlight. They also say to keep it in a cool spot, around 60 degrees F. Well, where I am, it is definitely not that cool. It gets very hot. So, these instructions don't go with each other. So, how in the world are you supposed to take care of it properly? Also, what if you can't plant it in the ground because of bad soil? Believe me...most things that get planted in the ground die. So, is it okay to keep it in a big enough pot? Please help...I like this plant a lot, and do want it to live. Thanks!
*Felicity2
[This message was edited by felicity2 on 05-19-03 at 02:05 AM.]
Posts: 86 | Location: Texas, USA | Registered: 03-08-03
If you have a single broad leaf tree (one that drops leaves in the fall) underneath that solitary tree would be 'Bright Shade'. The ground directly under the tree is in shade most of the day, but light filters in - thus 'bright light out of direct sunlight - or bright shade.
A 'Cool-Spot' doesn't mean you have to live in Alaska - Air temperature may reach 120, but soil temperature in shade can stay well below 70 degrees in many areas - especially if the soil is moist (watered regularly) the act of evaporation causing cooling in the local area (at ground level and the soil)
Yes you may keep the lily in a pot. The pot it came in should be ok for a minute or two. However, you may decide to go bigger because these spread via their roots. Most lilies are tubers or bulbs, and will put off pups if well tended.
They will die back. Part of life - that is perhaps the best time to transplant, or separate the pups off of them.
I would transplant them after they are done flowering, I would get a pot twice the diameter of the pot they are in now.
I would use a mixture of 2 parts potting soil, 1 part vermiculite and 1 part composted organic material. The vermiculite will lighten the soil (promoting root growth) and will hold on to more water, keeping the soil wetter longer.
The compost should give you a good dose of food for your plant to start. Using any good 20-20-20 or 10-10-10 fertilizer should work well if your starting soil is good.
You can keep a potted lily in a bright window. Yes, even on the north side of the house.
Most lilies are adaptable for a wide range of light - The dimmer the light, the darker the leaves - the more light, the lighter the leaves.
Cheers
David
Posts: 4014 | Location: Leaving land, heading for the ocean | Registered: 06-03-02
David, you are the most helpful person yet on this subject. Thank you so much. When you say "they will die back"...What do they look like when they do...?
-Trinity
Posts: 324 | Location: Texas USA | Registered: 06-28-02
quote:Originally posted by Trinity: David, you are the most helpful person yet on this subject. Thank you so much. When you say "they will die back"...What do they look like when they do...?
-Trinity
It will look as though you have lost the plant, everything above ground shrivels and dies. turns yellow.
What ever you do - DO NOT remove the wilting green parts of a bulb/tuber type plant. The bulb is eating the leaves from the inside out, storing the food for the next return to life. Many people make the mistake of cutting off the wilted, partially brown parts of these kinds of plants and wonder why the plant doesn't flower, or even come back the next year.
I have had great success with all sorts of tubers and bulbs by letting them die all the way until I can easily brush the dead stuff away.
Iris is an exception, these need to be cut back to five inches above the ground in a fan pattern.
also, during winter if you live in a snowy place, you might want to cover the area where the bulbs are with about 6 inches of mulch - a bale of straw (usually sold in fall for about $5.00 a bale) is an excellent mulch. Cut the cord and shake out the bale, making a light fluffy mound of straw. This will insulate the ground and keep it from freezing hard. Remove the mulch in spring.
Easter lillies do not normally bloom at Easter - it may not be until next mid summer (june/july) when it will reappear. The lillies we give at Easter Time are either from the tropics, or are 'forced' to grow and bloom out of season. Much like the poinsettia.
cheers
David
Posts: 4014 | Location: Leaving land, heading for the ocean | Registered: 06-03-02
Oh, good! It's supposed to look that way, then... I was worried that I was killing it, but, hoping it was normal. I haven't taken any leaves off, or anything, so, I guess I'm taking care of it correctly. Thank you so much for all your help!
-Trinity
Posts: 324 | Location: Texas USA | Registered: 06-28-02