OK, I want to build a bedroom in the basement.

It will be in a corner, so we only have to build two walls, one 10' long and one 12' long minus the door.

The ceiling can be a max of 6'8", and I was thinking about a drop tile ceiling so that some of the lighting could be built in.

How do I calculate how many 2 x 4's I'll need to build the walls? I can do square footage for the ceiling, drywall and carpeting, but don't know if I necessarily need to to 16" studs in a bedroom in the basement.

Also, two of the walls (the corner) are cinderblock. Should I put up 1 x 2"s to put drywall on these? If I do, would I be able to hang shelves? I was thinking of just leaving the cinderblock and painting it - I know there are cinderblock "anchors" that you can get to put shelves up. Any hints or suggestions would be appreciated.

My brother-in-law is the guy we all go to for construction things, but he's busy putting an addition on his house and I'd like to surprise my daughter with a new bedroom this summer.

Before you get started and you get your hopes up, I must warn you that most communities require a second exit from any bed room in case of fire. This can be a large window. In a basement bed room, you need an egress window made just for such a purpose.

Please check with your local building dept.

Next thing we would need to know is if this corner of the basement is ALWAYS dry.

To figure materials, I always use a scale drawing. Then I can count the studs.

Must people go with 2 X 4 over cinder walls so you have 4 inches for insulation. Don't forget the vapor barrier.

WOW

Yes, there's a window big enough to be used as an escape if necessary...I would probably put in a different one though, with escape purpose in mind.

We're very lucky that the foundation was very, very well built and there are no wet walls (unlike the last older house we had - yuk!). And I'm not sure we'd even need to insulate, the basement stays a constant 70 degrees winter and summer, which is weird for this area. Like I said, it was very well built. I guess I'm lucky that way.

I might still do the 2x4 thing though with insulation & drywall, for extra comfort and the ability to hang things.

Thanks again!

helo wi from wi! wow is right on the 2x4s on the outside wall! aside from the insulation it gives you more depth for electrical wires and boxes assuming you'll be putting in receptacles.Not a carpenter, but if floor is somewhat square with floor joists(generally you,ll find somewhat of a pitch towards floor drain,slight! Always go with 16" centers can't go wrong when nailing drywall studs are very cheap when saving on labor.I like to build wall on the floor using top and floor plates meaning 2x4s running all the way along at bottom of walls and the top(horizotal of course)and your 2x4's(vertical)studs between at the 16" center.Measure needed height and lin length and nail together(much easier to nail this way) then stand up fasten to joist and 3or4 concrete fasteners for floor and shim where floor is low.even if your alittle short just shim in 3or 4 spots and nail to joists.Start by measuring height at highest point from floor to joist on each wall they may very. also remember your vapor barrier.I put it to(on) the outside wall, only one side. also remember to add those 2x4s we all forget the first time in the corners for nailing your drywall to. remember any corners you'll need a stud for nailing or screwing the drywall.(at least half of the 2x4s face) also if you choose to only use a floor plate and nail your 2x4s to existing ceiling joists be sure to double nail those bottom studs to your floor plate. You'll be surprised if your first time how much those 2x4s warp and twist as they dry out in your house.Also figure double studs when you frame for your door.Best of luck being from Wi remember that heat run and if possible cold air return. Like wow said draw it out and count em. so if you miss ah couple gaurantee first time you'll be going back to purchase something else anyway! also will need some 2bys for framing that window.That lower floor plate will allow you nailer for base trim at finish.There's also webs and books avaiable but they don't always tell you the little things. hey learn to do by doing fun and mentally rewarding in the end. Good luck badger's!!!! Note on two of the walls you may need the upper plate for nailers for your vertical studs. EAGLE if wrong in any way hope others will help you or correct me! check price may only need 7' 2x4s for studs not 8'er's double check height remember those 2by's will take up 7inches of needed height if you double plate.'

Thanks for the detailed instructions...the base 2x4 (and corners) is how I was planning on going, and good to have corroboration. I will definitely go with the 2x4s w/drywall on the cinderblock walls to provide electrical outlets, A teenager uses alot of outlets!

The main reason I posted this here was BECAUSE most web-sites don't give all the details, and I knew that there were some knowledgeable people here that would give me some ideas!

Where in Wisconsin are you? Feel free to email me (in my profile), and just say "from AP" in the subject so I don't think you're a spammer and delete you!

Thanks again!

Gizmoram:

You did not get any details about electrical wiring.

Since you are building this bedroom for a teenager, I would recommend that you install AWG No.12 THHN with two wire(Black & White) with a bare copper ground wire to all the receptacles that you install.

Add them to a brand new circuit in your Power Panel with a 20-ampere circuit breaker.

Please do not post email addresses in open forums. Registered members can view your email address in your profile, if you wish to provide it.

Prof. Eng. No. E-16990 State of Missouri

[This message was edited by donaldekliros on 06-29-02 at 11:24 AM.]

[This message was edited by MiranndaGrey on 07-20-02 at 12:39 PM.]