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DH & I are planning on remodeling our very tiny galley kitchen and adjoining family room by expanding out about 8 feet. The problem is, neither one of us has an eye for what goes together. We both know what we like/don't like when we see it, but just aren't creative enough to coordinate things on our own.

So, are we better off getting an interior designer's perspective first, or hiring an architect? Are architects trained in any way to help people decide on things like what countertop color looks best with a particular cabinetry color? On the flip side, would an interior designer be aware of things like plumbing & electrical requirements/codes? This is the home we plan on staying in for at least the next 15 years, until our children finish school, so we'd like to make it very much "ours".

Can anyone help? TIA!
 
Posts: 2 | Location: usa1452 | Registered: 09-05-08Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
Diamond Enthusiast


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Neither- An architect is a good call if you're building a new home from the ground up, but for a remodel or addition- A contractor- a good old fashioned General Contractor is going to be able to plan out your expansion with an eye towards both aesthetic and practical concerns.... and DO the actual work.
An architect does the designing and puts together the drawings and plans, but then, after you've paid him, you still need someone to do the actual work.
A decorator is NOT usually trained in construction, but most construction contractors have some basic design sense.
 
Posts: 2252 | Location: Western United States | Registered: 06-03-02Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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If expanding out means outside - then you will need an architect and possibly an engineer as well as a General Contractor.

Architects do some asthetically pleasing things - usually their focus is on the flow of a built in space - say the flow of cabinetry, kitchen appliances along with the walls and floor plan. Some (not all) work with other materials other than drywall and lumber - in this case their use of say stone, glass and metal is aesthetically pleasing as well.

Engineers are the bare bones, behind the pretty designer - they set about making certain that the architects plans can be build and will be stable and not collapse in on you like a house of cards.

General contractors do the grunt work Or they don't work at all - not picking up a hammer, but they coordinate the subcontractors, the electrician, the plumber, the drywaller the framers, the painters, the tile guy, the designer, blah. They take the plans from both the architect and the engineer and make it into reality. As such some (not all) take it upon themselves to learn something about interior design. Those features like type of cabinetry, type of counter they MIGHT be interested in helping you with. If not or they don't know the difference between mauve and puce they will subcontract an interior designer who will coordinate with the client, asking lots of questions and come up with a couple of design choices that the client will choose from.

General Contractors do tend to know materials - such as they will tell you "Slate is not 'good' in my opinion as a counter top - travertine holds up well, has functionality...." here they are giving hard won advice about the functionality of a material. Its a good idea to listen to the Gen Contractor because they most likely have dealt with the aftermath of other jobs where clients call them to complain about the horrible stain left on the slate counter top.

Both or all three architect, General Contractor and an interior designer would work together to discover what it is that YOU the client really wants. In a kitchen setting, this covers the look of the appliances - are you into stainless steel? Or perhaps you are more of a traditional white appliance couple. Do you like maple over cherry? Or do you prefer just solid color or painted cabinet? "Now your hardware should match the sink fixtures a little so I have selected....." at that point they pull out a few selected bits of hardware (pulls and hinges) and might even set them along side the kitchen faucet.

Functionality will most likely be part of the agenda on the architect's advice, and mostly on the General Contractor's agenda - so too will be selling you on more expensive materials. Mind in many cases when they are trying to sell you more expensive materials its because they know that what they are offering will, in the long term, save you money.

An interior Designer will pull it all together - meaning once the cabinets, floor, walls and appliances are in their the finishing touches like wall color, light fixtures, window treatments, furnishings for the dinette area whatever will fall to them.

Kitchens are the most complex projects - it is understood that once done its done for a long time - so every detail has to be thought of and considered. Its not like doing interior design of your living room where little to nothing is permanently in place.

Most General contractors is the place to start - you call him/her in and go over what you want and s/he will bringing the right people for the various jobs, including engineer for structure and architect for blending the addition to the rest of the house.
 
Posts: 3995 | Location: Leaving land, heading for the ocean | Registered: 06-03-02Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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What I did when building my home was order all the pamphlets I could get from the government sites that check building standards.

- Electrical code simplified
- problem soils
- how to install insulation correctly
- how to pour a proper concrete foundation
etc. etc.

I had heard too many stories about people who had assumed their contractor knew what he was doing.

They usually know what they SHOULD do but make too many short-cuts to save time.

As it happens I got a very good house carpenter who enjoyed having a client who wanted things done right, even if it cost a bit more in labour and good materials.

(My husband didn't want to move to the boonies so he left the whole thing to me, hoping, I suppose, that I'd be overwhelmed with the responsibility and just give up the idea. He stayed in the city and I tented on the lawn as I found contractors -- plumber, electrician, etc. Within two weeks of moving in, he loved it.)

So I did the layout myself, took it to the architect who drew the plans, took them to the builder, and so forth. I wanted 13" of insulation in the roof, 2x6 instead of 2x4 in the walls so I could have extra insulation there, etc. So now I have a nice modest very pretty home and electric heating with woodstove as an option in case energy costs go totally nuts some day. My electricity bill has averaged $50 per month.

Since then I've had minor enhancements done from time to time, with other contractors, and have had a couple of problems with contractors who tell me my idea of how the work should be done is incorrect. I just show them what the standards require. "It's in the book." One had the nerve to tell me that the standards were 'excessive' and since I live in a rural area where buildings aren't inspected, I should do it his way. Suffice it to say he did not get the contract. I may be a 73-year-old widow but I'm no pushover.

Anyhow, my point is, don't underrate yourself. An informed homeowner is the best assurance of a satisfactory result.

Those pamphlets and books were cheap and very simple to understand. And I absolutely know they saved me a lot of money and aggravation.
 
Posts: 6538 | Location: British Columbia, Canada | Registered: 06-11-02Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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"I wanted 13" of insulation in the roof, 2x6 instead of 2x4 in the walls so I could have extra insulation there, etc."

In my opinion, it never hurts to overbuild. Another thing - You can't have too many electric outlets in a kitchen. Just make sure they are on different circuits. My insurance company recommended and I foolishly used what turned out to be a Moe-Larry operation and I can't use the microwave and Foreman grill at the same time.
 
Posts: 17483 | Location: Lincoln Place, Granite City, IL, USA | Registered: 06-03-02Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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A small architect's office can assist in helping you design your addition. Architect's can assist with minor interior design - like color selection and kitchen planning as well as make sure your addition meets code and is properly supported and constructed to work with the existing conditions. They will probably recommend that you find a kitchen design/supplier to assist with the kitchen design. Most places that sell cabinets offer design services complimentary with the purchase and they can usually show you three dimensional sketches with the appliances you want and the stone you select.

The right architect can lead you through the process and be affordable (may actually save you money and concern). Make sure you discuss costs upfront.

Good luck. (FYI - I'm an architect and a Construction Manager)
 
Posts: 3062 | Location: USA | Registered: 06-04-02Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Yes, I like the term overbuilding. Especially where energy costs are an issue.

I agree with ami that a good architect can help a lot. Mine explained why my first choice -- a log house -- had impractical features. I compromised and used unfinished 2" thick tongue-and-groove boards, red cedar, as siding.

In my opinion it's pretty as well -- especially when the clematis was clambering up the trellis! Though too rustic for some people's taste, I'm sure.

[URL= http://h1.ripway.com/babthrower/gate.JPG]Bab's House[/URL]

I'm looking into leaving it for a bird sanctuary in my will. I will name it after my husband, who was a bird-man.

A friend from Oregon looked up my address on Google Earth and she said all it showed was trees!

But I still believe that getting information on standards is a good move. Also Hammacher Schlemmer has a neat architecture kit that allows you to build 3D models to scale. I got it for my daughter and her husband who are building their retirement home only 4.5 minutes from my place. It even has little cubes so you can make furniture models to make sure you are allowing enough room in any given living area.


Sorry, Babs. I screw up pictures, too. This is the best thing I could do. - DG

This message has been edited. Last edited by: DorianGreyed,
 
Posts: 6538 | Location: British Columbia, Canada | Registered: 06-11-02Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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By George, I think I've got it!
[URL=]Cottage[/URL]
 
Posts: 6538 | Location: British Columbia, Canada | Registered: 06-11-02Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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the lap board siding was definitely the right move babthrower... log homes aren't quite what they're cracked up to be and your place looks great.

I can't say helping people pick granite or design their kitchens is my gig at all, but there are plenty of people out there to help.
 
Posts: 3062 | Location: USA | Registered: 06-04-02Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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An architect can help you only if you change the structure of your house. In many cases, removing a wall could weaken the ceiling or puting put a strain on other parts of the stucture structure.



Ad Removed - DG

Edited for spelling and grammar

This message has been edited. Last edited by: DorianGreyed,
 
Posts: 4 | Location: usa1452 | Registered: 09-14-08Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
could weaken the ceiling or puting a strain


"weaken or puting--???
 
Posts: 7124 | Location: Baltimore, MD, U.S.A | Registered: 06-03-02Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by stonlos:
An architect can help you only if you change the structure of your house. In many cases removing a wall could weaken the ceiling or puting a strain on other parts of the stucture.

Contact first an architect Contractors San Diego


She lives in Canada.. how can a firm in California help?
 
Posts: 9125 | Location: PA, USA | Registered: 06-05-02Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by babthrower:
By George, I think I've got it!


Is this really a cottage or is it a cabin?

Cabin: 2: a small one-story dwelling usually of simple construction

Cottage:
1 : the dwelling of a farm laborer or small farmer
2 : a usually small frame one-family house
3 : a small detached dwelling unit at an institution
4 : a usually small house for vacation use

I never know when to call a structure which.
 
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