In my kitchen the line runs at 110. I want to buy an appliance that runs on 220. Does I have to run a new line or can I change the breaker and outlet to 220 ?

Assuming that the current requirement is the same or less, and that the intended use is for a straight 220 volt (and not a 220/110 which would require 3 wire cable) and again assuming that you also change the receptacle and breaker to conform, you should be able to do it.

To clarify what Frank is telling you, homes are usually feed with 2, 120 volt lines to give you that 240 volts that you see now a day. By taking any one of these circuits to common, the white wire, you will get 120 Volts. This is usually run thought the house in black wire and in some cases red wire.

If your house is wired properly you will also have a green or bare wire for safety ground. You will never see anything other then safety ground on green and common on white. Other then that, I don’t think there is any other rule on wire color.

To get 240 to your kitchen would require a new circuit of 1 red wire to 1 side of the 240 and 1 black wire to the other side to give you the full 240 volts. In some cases you may find both in black wire.

This would also call for a special 240 breaker. The amp rating for this breaker as well as the size wire that you need is determined by the amp draw of the equipment to be installed.

You will still need the green or bare safety ground.

Most equipment that requires 220 volts works perfectly fine on 240 volts.

220 volt was upped several years ago to 240 volts by the power companies do to the increased demand by the consumers.

I have seen to many fires caused by amateur electricians. If you are not sure of what you’re doing, please get professional help.

In the UK the Household voltage was 250v for many years but Many Modern appliances are rated @220v to 240v and they run Happily on the same circuit which is rated at 15Amp load
Only exception is an Electric cooker this has to be used on a separate 30 Amp Circuit
What It translates (maximum loading wise) in Kilowatts Is roughly 2 KW for domestic sockets
and 2.5 KW for a Cooker socket(Guessing)

AndrBarron, I assumed, perhaps recklessly, that you seem to have a pretty fair idea of what you were doing, and wwere asking whether or not it was feasible. You live in New York so I don't think that we need concern ourselves with electrical practices in the UK, and the difference betwen voltages of 110, 115, 120, etc. is strictly a nominal one. The actual voltage at the point of use may be almost any one of those at any given moment since there are such things as voltage drops depending on distance from the source and impedance, etc. So it is usual among electricians, depending on their individual histories to speak of one-ten and two twenty rather than actual potentials. In the same way electricians often speak of the ungrounded circuit conductor as "positive" even though there is no positive and negative in alternating current.
I agree with WOW that if you aren't sure of what you are doing, don't do it! And I realize that this may be more information than you were seeking or need. But please feel free to ask for any clarification you think is required. There are too few questions of an electrical nature lately and too many enthusiasts waiting to pounce on them, myself included.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by donaldekliros:
Andrew:

What kind of an appliance are you installing in your kitchen that requires 240-volts? What is its amp draw?

These questions need to be answered to enable us to tell you what Circuit Breaker size to use & what Cable size to install.

The typical 240-volt circuit requires one Black, one Red, One White & one Green. The Green wire is the ground. The white wire is the neutral and is for 120-volt applications that you may need for the appliance that you are going to feed. The Black & red wires are the 240-volt potential.

Don